Snow!

A few days before Christmas 2007 I was at Camp Liberty, which was part of the massive Victory Base Compound (VBC) just south of Baghdad. A unique thing happened - it snowed. It was significant in that it was the first time Baghdad had seen snow since 1942. We all reacted with excitement at the sight. It was snowing in Baghdad! We were there as witnesses. The snow didn't last long and had changed to rain by noon. But for a few short hours that morning our camp became a winter wonderland. The fact that snowfall was rare in Iraq is just another big difference between that country and Afghanistan. Snowfall is not rare in this country. As a matter of fact, winters here can bring large amounts of snowfall coupled with extreme cold. Six years after being witness to a once-in-a-lifetime snow in Baghdad, I experienced my first snow in Afghanistan. It will be the first of many I expect.

For weeks now we've seen the snow on the mountains that surround Bagram. The snow line along the slopes has been slowly creeping down the mountains. The mountains continually remind me of the Southern Alps on New Zealand's South Island. I saw a similar "snow line creep" last summer while I was visiting Queenstown. The snow line finally reached our base yesterday late afternoon. Around 1700 it began snowing. The ground quickly turned white. As the evening progressed the snow continued at a rapid pace. Soon there was about five inches on the ground. Around 2300 I stepped over to the air passenger (PAX) terminal to get a hot chocolate at Green Beans Coffee. A flight had been cancelled and the Soldiers who were waiting to depart were still loitering. Even though their flight had just been cancelled, they were all happy and enjoying the snowfall. Some of them were having a rousing snowball fight. Others were making snowmen. It touched me to see the effect the snow had on these young men and women. Their flight home had been cancelled for some reason, yet they were all smiles as they became children again frolicking in the new-fallen snow.

The snow had stopped by morning but the scene was a base transformed. Bagram had become a winter wonderland. But unlike Baghdad six years before, this snow did not melt by noon. Winter has arrived and the snow has formed a bridgehead on our base. I'm certain snow follow-on reinforcements will be coming soon.

Bagram Dickens

Ah, Christmas in Bagram! It dawned bright and cold. The blissful moment was being able to sleep in an extra hour and the loiter with my coffee. I had spent part of Christmas Eve enjoying "Tops In Blue" perform their Air Force variety show. The other portion of the evening had been spent in meetings. Alas, it's business as usual here. The war didn't pause for Christmas. But we still took time to remember today. After an early workout, I accompanied my CSM to Warrior BBQ DFAC to work the serving line. For almost two hours we gratefully served heaping piles of turkey and ham onto the plates of hungry Soldiers and Airmen. They were all so happy to be served by the Garrison Command Team. I'm still smiling just thinking of the looks on their faces when I greeted each of them with "Merry Christmas" and filled their plates.

Tonight as I work late on Christmas to write an eviction notice to a contract medical clinic on Bagram, I can't help but think of this passage from "A Christmas Carol":  "The door of Scrooge's counting-house was open that he might keep his eye upon his clerk, who in a dismal little cell beyond, a sort of tank, was copying letters..."

So now, with apologies to Charles Dickens and with thanks to my Staff Judge Advocate for the assist, I give you Bagram Dickens:

"Are there no B-huts?" asked Scrooge. "Plenty of B-huts," said the gentleman, laying down the pen again. "And taxis to Kabul? Are they still in operation?" demanded Scrooge. "They are. Still, I wish I could say they were not," returned the gentleman.  "The Theater Business Clearance rules and Badge Access Control Policy are in full vigor then?" asked Scrooge. "Both very busy, sir," replied the gentleman. "Oh, I was afraid from what you said at first that something had occurred to stop them in their useful course. I'm very glad to hear it," said Scrooge. "Under the impression that they scarcely furnish Christian cheer of mind or body to the multitude," returned the gentleman, "a few of us are endeavouring to find an in-country sponsor to provide the contractors some government-furnished life support and letters of authorization. We choose this time, because it is a time, of all others, when Want is keenly felt and Abundance rejoices. What shall I put you down for?" "Nothing!" Scrooge replied. "You wish to be anonymous?" the gentleman asked. "I wish to be left alone," said Scrooge. "Since you ask me what I wish, gentleman, that is my answer. I don't make merry myself at Christmas and I can't afford to make idle contractors merry. I did not write the rules that I have mentioned; they are confusing enough; but those who are badly off must go there." The gentleman responded, "Many can't go there; and many would rather demobilize." "If they would rather demobilize," Scrooge replied, "they had better do it and decrease the surplus population. Besides - excuse me -   I don't know how to make a blanket purchase agreement." "But you might know it," observed the gentleman. Scrooge retorted, "It's not my business. It's enough for the J4-M to understand his own business and not to interfere with other people's. Mine occupies me constantly. Air Assault!"

Seeing clearly that it would be useless to pursue his point, the gentleman withdrew. Scrooge resumed his labors with an improved opinion of himself,  and in a more facetious temper than was usual with him. Merry Christmas and Bah Humbug! (In case you couldn't follow the humor of this no worries. It is derived from the lingo of my world in Bagram)

Actually, just Merry Christmas will suffice. Christ is born! Let us all share in the celebration. From all of us in Bagram to all of you back home - may God richly bless you on this wonderful celebration of His Gift to all of us.

Haven't Had a Beer in 105 Days

I know. I've touched on this subject in previous blogs. But I can't help myself. It's time to visit the subject of General Order 1B. GO1B was implemented over a decade ago at the outset of operations in Afghanistan and Iraq. It is a U.S. Central Command (USCENTCOM) policy that is directed to the subordinate Combatant Commanders in the field. The pretense of GO1B is good order and discipline of the troops. With that in mind, GO1B prohibits the troops from a number of activities while they are serving in the area of operations. Now I could go down the list of everything GO1B prohibits. Instead, I'll just touch on the one thing GO1B is known for - prohibiting the possession, consumption, and distribution of alcoholic beverages. Unlike those old MASH episodes we grew up on where Hawkeye Pierce and crew are drinking during their off-duty hours, we are not afforded that luxury. As with many others, I enjoy a good beer from time to time. But when you can't have one at all the thought of a frosty draft lager beer can become an almost explicit fantasy daydream. This is especially true when not every day is great, as is often the case in Afghanistan. Having a nice cold beer at the end of the day would be such a relaxing escape. Unfortunately, GO1B stands in the way. We live and work in a "dry" environment.

It's been 105 days since my last beer. I remember exactly what kind of beer it was and where I enjoyed its frothy goodness. It was a draft Blue Moon Ale. I enjoyed it at the hotel bar in the El Paso Marriott. It was the night before we flew to Afghanistan. I caught a cab from our barracks on post and ate dinner at the steakhouse next door to the Marriott. Then I walked to the hotel bar for a couple of beers. I savored them while watching the opening game of the 2013 NFL season on the bar's big screen. Around 2300 I caught a cab back on post and finished packing for our flight the next day. Beer - one of life's beautiful luxuries - was now in my rear view mirror for an indefinite time period thanks to GO1B.

Time is moving rather quickly on this deployment. My CSM and I have already been in command for over 90 days. Christmas is upon us. That may be the reason I'm daydreaming about beer. If I wasn't deployed right now I'd be looking forward to having a cold one while watching bowl games with family. This will be my fourth Christmas spent deployed to a combat zone. The homesick feeling only grows more acute with each subsequent deployment. And the thought of that next cold beer is ever present. With that in mind, I'll try to think "days until my next beer." Taking my R&R leave into account, it looks like it will be about 115 days until my next beer. Okay, I can live with that. Let the countdown begin!

The Streak Must End Today!

December 1, 2001. That was the last time Army beat Navy in football. I was there. The game, like this year's, was in Philadelphia. The Nation was still coming to grips with the specter of war that had arrived on our doorstep only three months earlier. I flew down to meet up with some West Point classmates to watch the game. Army won 26-17 to take a 49-47-7 lead in the all-time series. None of us could have fathomed that twelve years later we'd be looking back at a dominate streak by Navy of eleven straight wins. It's the longest winning streak in the history of the series - placing Navy firmly in the the series lead at 58-49-7. The streak must end today.

I will be watching the game, as will many other West Point graduates, from Afghanistan. We will stay up late. For us, kickoff will actually be shortly after midnight on the following day. We'll gather in clusters in front of AFN broadcasts of the game. We'll perform "Rocket Cheers" and sing "On Brave Old Army Team." At the conclusion of the game, even though it will be around 0400, we'll proudly stand at attention and sing our Alma Mater. The winning team always sings their Alma Mater last. Army hasn't sung our Alma Mater last in eleven straight games wrought with futility and frustration. This year we are singing last. There is NO substitute for victory. The streak must end today.

For every "Heart in Gray" who has painfully endured the last eleven Army-Navy games, for every member of The Long Gray Line past and present, for everyone who has served our Nation"s Army in peacetime and war, THE STREAK MUST END TODAY! GO ARMY! BEAT NAVY!

Chairman's Holiday Troop Visit

It's that time of year again. Back home people are decorating their trees and houses. Stores are doing their best to bring in big sales. Everyone is checking their gift list and checking it twice. And members of the Armed Forces deployed in harm's way are continuing with their mission. But something much appreciated by the troops occurs around this time of year as well. We are frequently visited by celebrities and VIPs who come to share Christmas cheer. Bagram was the recipient of one of these visits just the other day. It was one of the biggest I've ever seen. The Chairman of the Joint Chiefs of Staff, General Martin Dempsey, and his Senior Enlisted Advisor, Sgt Maj Bryan Battaglia, came to Bagram with an entire entourage of entertainers for an evening of fun. Accompanying them were actress Alison Haislip, song writer Bridget Kelly, Washington Nationals pitcher Adam LaRoche, former New England Patriots tackle Matt Light, radio personality Nephew Tommy, and brothers Jep and Willie Robertson of Duck Dynasty. They also brought along dozens of Georgetown Cupcakes to satisfy our collective sweet tooth. The event was held in the giant C130 hanger, which is very close to my HQ. Fortunately, I was able to attend the pre-event social that was held backstage. This meant I got an opportunity to speak at length with both Matt Light and Adam LaRoche. I never realized Matt Light now has his own brand of vodka that is distilled in Newport, RI. After the social we moved to the section of the hanger where the show would be performed. There must've been 2,000 people in attendance - mostly military. General Dempsey and Sgt Maj Battaglia kicked off the event to the cheering audience. Then each of the visitors provided their own version of entertainment. The biggest hit was the guys from Duck Dynasty. I've never seen their show but it is obviously very popular with the military. After the main event ended the celebrities remained to sign autographs and take photos. It was a really great performance.

A little later in the evening I was afforded the opportunity to attend a small dinner with the VIPs. I chatted with Nephew Tommy, who sat at my table. All of our celebrity guests were having the time of their lives spending down-to-earth time with the troops. As the supper ended I spoke briefly with Sgt Maj Battaglia, who is a Marine many folks would know from his "color commentary" on The Military Channel. He surprised me with a coin. I then spoke a moment with General Dempsey, who I originally met near the conclusion of Operation New Dawn in Iraq. When I told him I was the Garrison Commander he said, "You'll probably be the one who turns out the lights in Bagram." I answered, "Yes Sir, I figure I did it in Iraq so I guess I can do it here too." Then, for the second time in two years, the Chairman of The Joint Chiefs of Staff presented me his coin. It was a really great evening.

That's quite the empire you run there

Where do the hours of the day go? It was never my intent to let a week go without jotting down another reflection. But that's exactly what's happened. It has already been a week since Thanksgiving.    I believe it took almost that entire time for my stomach to recover from the feast we were served. It wasn't the tryptophan that kept me from writing another entry though. I simply haven't had the time to get my thoughts in order - much less put them to blog. So now I am forcing myself to carve out a portion of the time I normally dedicate to my daily workout in order to assure the world I'm still alive. Bagram is definitely still here and just as big and bustling as ever. Afghanistan is still a dangerous place to be. This past week provided a big reminder of how dangerous this place can be. Death can come with little or no notice.

Only a few hours after I posted my last entry I was crawling into bed. It was around 0040, with Thanksgiving day only minutes over. Just a mere hours earlier I'd been eating a scrumptious feast and enjoying a fabulous celebration. Now in bed, I had just pulled the covers over when the IDF claxton alarm sounded followed by "Incoming! Incoming! Incoming!" I heard the rocket overhead followed by the detonation of the impact. I laid there for a moment and contemplated just staying in bed. After all, the rockets always miss right? Within a few minutes my phone rang. It was my CSM. He had bad news. This time the rocket didn't miss. He simply said, "Sir, the rocket hit a barracks and there are casualties. I'm on my way there." I promptly got back up, got dressed, and ran out the door. A few minutes later I found the report to be true. Three civilian contractors were badly injured. Unfortunately, two of them did not make it through the night. I was struck by the stoic calm on everyone's faces. Was it shock? The early hours of the morning took on the surreal feeling of a dream. Was I dreaming? I wasn't. Why did this have to happen? These people have families back home who I am sure they were talking to only hours before to wish a happy Thanksgiving. Now tragedy had struck. I thought of the sadness that would soon overcome their families where happiness had so recently resided. I finally returned to bed around 0400 but couldn't sleep. Thanksgiving had become a distant memory.

A few days later the Colonel who commands the Combat Aviation Brigade invited my CSM and I to accompany him on an aerial tour of Bagram. We readily accepted. The next day around 1100 we jumped onto his Blackhawk on a bright, hazy day and took off. Over the next 45 minutes we flew over and around Bagram. I furiously snapped photos of the complex and surrounding terrain. The base is mind-boggling in size and seeing it from the air is all the more staggering. The Aviation Colonel, who was piloting the aircraft,summed it up over our headsets. As we flew along the western perimeter wall he said, "That's quite the empire you run there." "Yes it is," I answered. Yes, it is.

Happy Thanksgiving from Bagram!

This is the fifth Thanksgiving in the last nine years I've spent deployed - including the last three in a row. I made a promise this one will be the last. In the meantime, I made the most of this one with my comrades here. The best part of the day was when my CSM and I spent over an hour serving food to Soldiers in one of the many dining facilities. I probably served more mashed potatoes and gravy than I've seen my entire life. The spread of food was immense. Not a stomach left hungry. When it was finally my turn I gorged myself. I had turkey with gravy and cranberry sauce, corn on the cob, prime rib, ham, macaroni and cheese, stuffing, pumpkin pie, egg nog, and a near beer. I'm still stuffed as I write - a full eight hours later. The rest of the day we circulated the base wishing everyone a Happy Thanksgiving. Later we sat in with the Deputy Secretary of Defense, who was visited for the day. He presented us both a coin and thanked us for our service. I also smoked a cigar with some of my staff. All-in-all it was an excellent Thanksgiving considering where we had to spend the day.

It's never as good as home though. I can assure you that all of us here in Bagram miss those we left behind in order to serve. We all wish each of you the happiest of Thanksgivings. We will all be home soon. From our home in Bagram to yours - God Bless and Happy Thanksgiving!

Taliban Wake-up Call

The days are getting shorter. The weather is getting colder, grayer, and ominous. Even so, we still occasionally get a little IDF. The other morning we had one come in a little after 0500. I didn't even hear the alarm because I was absolutely out cold. Then my phone rang, which blasted me out of bed to the feel of the icy floor on my bare feet. Running to grab my phone I heard the announcement over the big voice, "IDF impact! Take cover! Don IBA if available!" Those words resonated through the cobwebs of my still-sleeping brain and registered just as I answered the phone. It was my Deputy checking to see if I was okay. I had recovered from my sleep enough to sound official. I asked him for a quick update. Fortunately, it was another complete miss by the bad guys outside the wire. The "All Clear" sounded shortly afterward. I promptly went back to bed in an effort to salvage my precious last 45 minutes of sleep. That endeavor proved fruitless. Thank you Taliban for ruining my sleep. I slowly eased back onto the cold floor, sauntered over to the coffee pot and got the morning brew on. The sun was rising to reveal another cold, overcast day in Afghanistan. Just a few minutes earlier I'd been dreaming of that beautiful snow and view as I was skiing down Coronet Peak in New Zealand. But the reality of being awake shook that image from my mind. There's no skiing in this cruddy place. At least I had my coffee.

I find many aspects of this place to be vastly different from my many experiences of deployments to Iraq. As strange as it may sound, Iraq was a much more "civilized" and orderly placed to be holed-up in the middle of a war. There's something about Afghanistan that casts a dirty pall over everything we do. I can't put my finger on it just yet. This is a land that covets war. The people who live here have known only war for centuries. We come here from places that know only peace and, for the most part, prosperity only to find that Afghanistan is the one place on God's beautiful Earth where peace and prosperity have never existed. We find ourselves not comprehending how it can be that the people here don't seem to want things we take for granted. The Taliban and Al Qaeda knew exactly what they were doing by making Afghanistan their base of operations for launching their dastardly attacks of September 11, 2001. In doing so they knew we'd come to Afghanistan and inexorably become sucked into the vortex of violence that is this country. When the war was about expelling the Taliban and Al Qaeda it was simple and easy. But the war became something infinitely more complex. How many nations have come and gone before us in the name of peace and prosperity for Afghanistan? In the end they all left and Afghanistan remained as a desolate, war-torn place of tribal bickering, crime, and death. Now we've reached the point where after 12 years of expending blood on behalf of the people of Afghanistan their government can't even agree on a security agreement with us without demanding an apology. An apology? Would they rather still be ruled by the Taliban? For that matter, did the Afghan government demand an apology from the Taliban? Never mind that the Taliban practically single-handedly destroyed what little fabric of society remained in this country, obliterated artifacts from its history, and murdered tens of thousands in the process. I feel a foreboding that very soon we are going to do exactly like we did in Iraq - cut sling rope and high-tail it out of this place. And Afghanistan will be once again left with war, tribal bickering, crime, death, and the Taliban.

We Soldier on because we believe in each other. It may sound selfish to say this but the reason we still shoulder the burden in this shitty place is for the person to our left and right. Not one of us will falter nor fail so long as we have each other.

In between all the meetings...

Brief flurries of productivity interrupted by meetings... Such is life around here. It never ceases to amaze me how some people become infatuated at seeing a need for more meetings. Normally they are folks that I work for. For the life of me I don't understand the urgency of having redundant gatherings to discuss the exact same topics, conduct a repeat in-progress review (IPR), or go over the same PowerPoint production for the umpteenth time. But, I guess, some folks just have too much time on their hands. I keep promising myself and others that I'll never be that Officer who lives in an analysis-to-paralysis of PowerPoint slides designed to hold my subordinates hostage for 23 out of 24 hours daily. If the stars align and I'm seen fit to advance to General Officer level I pledge to be the most subordinate user friendly, low maintenance person of my rank around. Alas, it appears I am ranting a bit. It's well placed rant. My command is extremely productive towards mission success as long as we aren't getting interrupted by another meeting.

The past few days have been a continuation of the whirlwind of activity that we live here. Bagram is actually starting to show evidence of the work we've tried to stay focused on. The old wooden b-huts are now dropping like flies. New, hardened buildings and billeting areas are coming on line. Soldiers are being shuffled around into better living conditions. There are less vehicles on the road, which has brought about a noticeable decline in transit times around base. I am quite pleased with the incredible things that we're accomplishing. It is a fundamental transformation of this massive base into a much more efficient, less-populous, and significantly more modern installation. There have been many Garrison teams that have come before mine to manage this place. But my team is the one charged with the historic reduction of Bagram. For the next few days we get to also enjoy Thanksgiving decorations while we work. It's appropriate because we've become family through the course of our shared labor and hardship. As family we'll spend our Thanksgiving together.

That's not to say we aren't thinking of our friends and family right now. We do. My mind is always with those I love.  Deployments are always the hardest for everyone over the holidays. But we persevere. Mission first!

Technical Difficulties

There are times when deployment nuisances can be a real pain. I've been beset by those of late. My blog has suffered as a result. It started around three weeks ago. I was in my room late one evening checking email, skyping, and the other usual stuff. We have a very substandard Internet service here for personal use called Sniperhill. It isn't free. To the contrary, it is way overpriced for the service it delivers. But I digress. Back to the story, I was online when BAM! My crappy Toshiba laptop was frozen by a virus that completely locked it up. Multiple attempts to get it back in service proved fruitless. Thus ended my Internet access from my room. Unfortunately, I have never been able to get my wireless router to work with Sniperhill so I could not revert to using my iPad. Now this situation was not a hindrance to my blog, as I could still access it through my work computer. Fast forward two weeks and BOOM! Those crazy signal-OPSEC types that run our server decided to block the Blogger web page. This left me no option but to revert to my iPad for blog entries. Ah but remember the wireless challenge in my room? My only recourse for the moment is to walk over to the passenger terminal for the military flights and use the free SPAWAR wireless there. Using the touchpad on a mini iPad to write a blog entry makes for interesting fun. So now I hope you will understand why I've been silent of late. Well, a busy workload played a hand in that too.

Bagram is working up to a fever pitch of activity. Units are "ripping" out. New units are arriving. Facilities and billets are being torn down or relocated. Thanksgiving and Christmas are rapidly approaching, which adds to the general homesick feeling we all endure daily. And the weather is turning cold. The mountains that surround us are all snow capped. Every day is a blur of meetings that can last into the evening. Plans are proposed, approved, or sent back to the drawing board. The cycle continues.

However we do find time for community activities that break the monotony. This past week I spent a couple of hours at the Polish compound to attend their National Day activities. This included speeches, awards ceremonies, and military displays. It was culminated by a feast of Polish favorites. I can't say I enjoyed them all but I did like the cheeses, smoked meats, the strange egg dish, and the grilled chicken. I also enjoyed the grilled kielbasa but suffered later for it during my afternoon run.

At this point I'm about ready to give in and buy a new laptop. Technical challenges can always be fixed. Sometimes you have to pay for them in order to overcome. Stay tuned.

Happy Veterans Day!

Lonely MRAP provides perimeter security

Veterans' Day was originally known as Armistice Day. It was a day set aside to honor the fallen of the Great War of 1914-1918 in which the youth of Europe were slaughtered in the muddy mire of trench warfare. The armistice that ended the war went into effect on "the eleventh minute of the eleventh hour of the eleventh day of the eleventh month" of 1918. On that minute the guns fell silent. The Allied Nations later all began commemorating that moment through the celebration of Armistice Day. After another great war shook the globe - World War II - many countries changed the name of Armistice Day to Remembrance Day to honor the fallen of both of these great conflicts. In the United States the name was changed to Veterans' Day in order to honor all who had served both past and present. Since World War II, the United States has added many more to the honored roles of those who have served. Korea, Vietnam, Operation Urgent Fury, Panama, and Operation Desert Storm added millions more names to the list of those who had served our Nation's wars. When the World Trade Center and Pentagon were attacked on September 11, 2001, it heralded an entirely new wave of Veterans who would serve in Afghanistan and Iraq. I knew my life would change forever when the Twin Towers fell. I was right. I'm now part of a unique breed of Veterans. We have served on multiple tours to both Iraq and Afghanistan in a conflict that has now spanned over a decade. This will be my fourth Veterans' Day spent in a combat zone, in the heart of a war. I am not alone. I am here with some of the best of the best our Nation has ever produced. Together we stand proud to serve and know a bond to each other that many others will never know. We serve for each other.

As with other holidays we are used to celebrating back home, today is just another day for us. While we take the time to wish one another well, we have a job to do that takes priority. At the same time, I have never seen anyone show bitterness of knowing our friends and family back home have a day off to celebrate. Instead, we are just thankful that our loved ones back home have the opportunity to enjoy today. It is heartwarming to know they are thinking of us. If anything, our morale is always the highest on days like today. As for me? I am thankful for the long tradition of service my family has rendered. I'm just the latest in a long line of those who have served in wartime dating all the way back to the Revolutionary War. It's almost second nature. Even while I am here in Bagram I have a nephew who is also spending this Veterans' Day with his Army comrades in a designated combat zone. I'm sure he is enjoying today sharing the same sentiments we all have in this situation. Both of us also managed to get a phone call in yesterday to my Marine Dad to wish him happy 238th birthday of the United States Marine Corps. Yes, service runs in our blood.

So on this day I wish everyone back home a Happy Veterans' Day from Afghanistan. Enjoy today and raise your glasses to all of my comrades past and present. Do so knowing that we've got your back always. Our Nation will always remain free so long as we have heroes such as those I've served with who stand ready to guard the ramparts when we are threatened. It's business as usual here in Bagram but we never forget what today is all about. All we ask is that folks back home never forget what today is about either. Never forget and we will celebrate many Veterans' Days together to come.

Colonels - Brought up on '80's

Journey Unauthorized - another of our MWR events

As with any other location I've been deployed to, Bagram has its share of celebrity visitors. They come here to entertain the troops courtesy of the Morale, Welfare, and Recreation (MWR). It just so happens that the MWR directorate works for me. That means I have the inside scoop on all the incoming acts. Our most recent visitors were a Journey cover band appropriately named "Journey Unauthorized". Back in the '80's, Journey was a very popular band from San Francisco. They were known for their love ballads, which were belted out by the silky-sweet voice of Steve Perry. As the '80's came to a close the band faded as well - burned out I guess. But their music - just like other songs from the '80's - endured. It's almost impossible these days to go to a karaoke venue and not here somebody shredding Journey hits like "Don't Stop Believin'"or "Send Her My Love". When I first learned we had a Journey cover band coming I was skeptical. I was never a huge fan and, quite frankly, I was worried they might not be a big draw for the younger personnel. But my skepticism proved unfounded. Journey Unauthorized came and conquered Bagram young and old. They rocked.

The night prior to the concert was my normal cigar night with some of my counterparts from the Air Force. We always meet up on top of the old Russian control tower to smoke our cigars, drink near beer, swap stories, and enjoy the panoramic view of Bagram. This particular night was the coldest we've had yet so we stayed bundled up in our fleeces. Around 2000 one of the MWR folks came up and asked if we'd mind being joined by the band members, who had arrived earlier that day. They had flown in from Oman, where they had performed the previous night. We invited them up to join us. I was surprised to find them all very normal guys. It turned out that their stage personas were just an act - right down to the wigs. In reality, they were just some good dudes who enjoy playing cover music and do a great job at it too. The lead singer also performs in a Led Zeppelin cover band. The keyboardist used to have his own band and even released a solo album back in 1999. They were all very thankful to be in Bagram to spend time with us. We showed them the base from the tower and answered questions about the base and our operations (keeping OPSEC in mind
 of course). They visited with us for about an hour and then headed to their billets for the night. We continued our cigars, swapped notes on the band, and promised each other we'd all be at the concert the next night.

The show was held in "The Clamshell", which is a tent facility conveniently located across the street from my HQ. I walked over just before start time to find the place full of people of all ages. They were all eager to hear the concert. Colonels and Sergeants Major had VIP seating, which was irrelevant once the show began because we all rushed to the base of the stage. When the band kicked off I was struck by how good they were. They sound exactly like Journey in every way. I looked around and saw that all of us were singing along to every single song. Did I really remember every single Journey song? Apparently I did because I was enthusiastically bouncing to every tune. Journey Unauthorized rocked The Clamshell. The faux Steve Perry crooned the ladies as expected and everyone was enjoying the event. Just before their final song they called me and several other of the Colonels on stage to thank us for letting them perform in Bagram. Then they let us stay on to help them out with "Don't Stop Believin'". Each of us even got a chance to belt out a few words of the lyrics. It was really an awesome moment and the rank and file of the audience were thrilled.

Colonels hang with Journey Unauthorized

After the show the band patiently waited for every single person in attendance who wanted a photo or autograph. Once the long line of fans filed through the old Colonels made their way over for a photo. The band broke out their own cameras for this one. It was a night we'll all remember. Even in the middle of a war we can still be teenagers again for a few moments of fun. We Colonels are all products of the '80's. We proved it on this night. Thank you Journey Unauthorized for giving everyone at Bagram such a memorable evening. You put the MWR in MWR. You rocked!

Red Sox Nation Afghanistan Chapter

Random chaos under the watch of the mountains

And so the Red Sox have done it again. For the third time in the last ten years they have won the World Series. What's been a common theme to all three? I was deployed. When the Red Sox won it all in 2004 I was on tour in Liberia as a UN Military Observer. In 2007 I was enjoying "The Surge" in Iraq while the Red Sox took home the trophy again. Wouldn't you know it? They win it all again this year and I soak in the excitement from Afghanistan. Red Sox Nation is alive and well here in Bagram. It is amazing how many fans came out of the woodwork to proclaim their pride. It's not an easy thing to do here given the time difference. Bagram is eight and a half hours ahead of Eastern Standard Time. That meant that it was around 0430 the next day here when the first pitch went out for each of the games. I was up and watching. Fortunately, AFN has long ago returned to normal service and provided a feed of each game. I am ecstatic the Red Sox won again and that they did it in six games - meaning the clincher came in Boston for the first time since 1918. What a party that must've been! If I could just get the team to come to Bagram I'd arrange a victory parade right down Disney Drive. But here's a word of caution to all my fellow members of Red Sox Nation - if you are starting to believe that me being deployed is a requirement for the team to win the World Series then think again. This is my last deployment. I made a promise. Besides, I'm getting a little tired of my ten-year adventure. But as long as I'm here the Red Sox Nation Afghanistan Chapter will endure.

It is good that we have our sports to sustain us. Football season is in full swing and it is fun to hear the office chatter of fans when I come to work each day. The big game on the slate this weekend (at least for me) is Army at Air Force. Last year Army destroyed Air Force at Michie Stadium. I'm hoping that Army does the same this year. But I am concerned. Which team will Army bring to the field at game time? Will it be the Black Knights who played nearly perfect football in three blowout victories this season? Or will it be the sloppy, over-confident bunch that stunk up the place in getting blown out themselves by 0-6 Temple? If there is one thing that has characterized Army over the past few seasons is that they have a habit of beating themselves on poor execution of the basics. That is something they cannot do when they tee-up to play Air Force. I'll be watching the game. I'm certain AFN will televise it. For now I'll just say GO ARMY! BEAT AIR FORCE!

In the meantime I'll stay focused on work. That's what we do here. We work, eat, sleep, workout, and watch football at god-awful hours of the morning. Then we do it again. The only change is the weather, which is getting colder by the day.

Landmines and Poppies

Mines and Poppies - a sideshow of Afghanistan

Every place has its distinguishing features, landmarks, or signature characteristics. I will frequently encounter something along the way of my day and it will trigger a memory of another place a world away. It could be anything that stimulates the recall section of my brain-housing group. Perhaps a craggy, snow-capped mountain that brings the image of The Remarkables Range near Queenstown, New Zealand to mind - such a lovely place that it is. Or there may be a patchwork of colors that bring me back to my roots in the Blue Ridge of North Carolina and their vibrant leaves of fall. But here in Afghanistan these distinctive features are things I hope I don't normally encounter in future travels. While the mountains that surround Bagram are indeed pretty, they aren't so distinctive that I'll think of this place when I see similar peaks. No, what stands out here are bleak reminders of this country's past, present and future. They are both deadly reminders of the ravages that have beset this land for decades, even centuries. One of them is a by-product of a deadly decade of catastrophic conflict brought on when the Soviet Union invaded in 1979 - landmines. The other is a naturally grown plant that has been the source of trans-national drug trade for centuries - poppies. Both of them are found in abundance in this land of war and crime.

Landmines - death and dismemberment is only a footfall away. Afghanistan is the most heavily landmine infested place in the world. That's a sad claim to fame. They have the Soviet Union to thank. In 1979 the now bankrupt Communist regime invaded Afghanistan in an effort to prop up the failing Commie puppet regime in Kabul. What ensued was a bloodbath over a decade long that saw the rise of the future leadership of Al Qaeda and hastened the end of the Soviet Union. From the perspective of the United States, it was a CIA war fought through "freedom fighters" known as the Mujahideen. At last we were able to suck the godless Commies into their own version of Vietnam. The Red Army gradually found itself in close combat with an increasingly sophisticated, highly-mobile band of guerilla fighters that were more than up to their task. Their task was simple - kill as many Russians as possible and keep doing it over and over. The Soviet response was a scorched earth policy of destruction in which rather than adapt to guerilla tactics they attempted to deny the Mujahideen of their greatest ally - the land itself. Heavy handed airstrikes in which collateral damage wasn't even considered were the normal event of the day. Then came the landmines. The Soviets randomly dropped millions and millions of landmines. They planted them in rivers and streams, along roads, in every farmland, mountain pass, and any other spot they deemed useful to anyone. As the Mujahideen gained the upper hand in the struggle the Soviets fell back on their bases and fortified them as though their own Alamo moment had arrived. Then the end came. But not because the ultimate battle to the death ensued, rather because the Soviet Union itself was collapsing. The Red Army was called back to Mother Russia, leaving the Commie Afghan regime to its own devices. That's when the Russian Bear gave its big, bloody middle finger to Afghanistan. On their way out the Soviets dropped millions more landmines on everything they left behind - including their former bases and the land surrounding them. That's what happened to Bagram. Many an Afghani has lost life or limb in the 25 or so years that have passed since the Russians left. The U.S.-led coalition has been conducting demining efforts for the past ten years and still vast stretches remain. It is simply a sad state of affairs and we know fully well that we'll never fully rid this land of the mess.

Poppies - addiction, money, and centuries of misery. Poppies always make me think of the scene from The Wizard of Oz when Dorothy and crew are running to the Emerald City only to have the Wicked Witch of the West put them all (except the Scarecrow of course) to sleep with poppies. Only the snowfall from Glenda The Good could wake them back up. Unfortunately for Afghanistan, there is no Glenda The Good to bring her magic snowfall to remove the addiction of the poppies. These beautiful flowers are the source of opium. Their powerful nectar has been fueling a drug trade that has been ongoing for centuries. With the development of even more powerful derivatives such as heroin the drug trade that originates in the fields of Afghanistan has proliferated. There have been wars fought and nations enslaved over the hypnotic sway of the poppy. The drugs of poppies easily found their way both east and west through the spice routes made popular by people like Marco Polo. Those early trade routes went through Afghanistan. In China, the Opium War broke out against Great Britain, which had introduced the drug into China in order to supress the population and maintain order by keeping the Chinese people in a drug-induced state. For the people of Afghanistan the poppy represents their greatest cash crop. But the crops are controlled mainly by trans-national criminal organizations, the money bankrolling terrorist organizations such as the Taliban and Al Qaeda. Efforts have been made in the last decade to introduce new farming methods and crops to replace poppies. But the poppy still reigns supreme. With it comes addiction and death. It will always reign supreme here.

And so once I leave this place I hope my flashback is never induced by the two features of this place that stand out the most. I'd just rather not encounter landmines or poppies after my tour is complete.

Routine? Or Rut?

My chariot for battlefield circulation

I've quickly come to the conclusion that my command is understaffed, undermanned, and overworked. It's amazing to me how much the various tenants on Bagram think Garrison is responsible for (or can do) - as compared to what we actually are responsible for (or can do). As for my position as Garrison Commander, I can sum up my days as follows: brief flurries of productivity frequently interrupted by meetings. One aspect of this deployment that I must admit is frustrating is that I am, essentially, confined to the base. It's really just by the nature of the position. I'm responsible for the majority of what goes on "inside the wire" and that's where I remain. But it is such an unusual feeling given that my previous deployments involved me traveling frequently throughout the country. My Area of Responsibility (AOR) for this tour is confined to the 3600 acres of Bagram. My battlefield circulation consists of me climbing in my assigned vehicle and driving around the perimeter to check on the progress of our various infrastructure projects. It's a far cry from the Blackhawk, Chinook, and MRAP rides I'm used to from Iraq. I've become acutely familiar with the inside of perimeter walls and the long stretches of fences and razor wire. At times it feels as though Bagram is a maximum security prison rather than a strategic logistical hub for the war in Afghanistan. I wouldn't be surprised at some point to be driving along one day and encounter Snake Plisken with his cobra tattoo and eye patch diligently attempting to escape from Bagram. I'm in Afghanistan but the closest I've come to the country so far is views of the mountains in the distance and the occasional goat herder moving along a few hundred meters outside the fenceline. No matter, my job is inside the wire. That's where I have to stay focused. But I can't deny my sense of adventure kicks in frequently and it makes me long to venture outside these walls.

Having been in command now for over a month there is a familiar battle rythm kicking in. It's called routine. I've been making changes to many of the meetings the previous commander would hold. The majority of them I deemed unnecessary and eliminated altogether. Those that remained were streamlined to be less time-consuming. Then there are the meetings expected from higher command. I couldn't influence those much so they occur with normalcy on my calendar. All that being said, I have to look at the calendar to remember what day of the month it is. But I always know what day of the week it is based on the meetings. Is that a routine or a rut? It's way too early for the rut to kick in.

At this point the initial new command euphoria has worn off a little as well. In it's place comes the familiar crush of realization that deployments are hard core separations from people and places you love. I'm feeling that crush. My thoughts are frequently to the tune of the strumming of my heart's strings. It is very good that my days are busy because it is making them go by faster. At the same time, the work my personnel are masterfully performing is making a difference on Bagram and have visible, tangible results that affect everyone on the base in a positive way. That makes it much easier for me to stay focused as the commander. Patience with progress is a virtue. And the Red Sox are in the World Series, which seems to always happen when I'm deployed.

Chilly nights, busy days

Sappers on standby

Earlier today I was enjoying a quiet lunch at the Dragon DFAC (yes, they all have names) when I realized the music playing in the background was '80's hits in elevator format. Seriously? Has it really been so long ago now that '80's music is relegated to elevator music status? Not only was I disgusted at this thought, I could also remember how each song is supposed to sound and when they were released. Doing the quick math in my head I pondered on the thought that its been 23 years since that amazing decade came to an end. Most of the songs on the '80's elevator playlist were as old as 30 years. I have reached an age that I would have thought ancient back when I was in high school. How do I know? Most of the "Dragon DFAC Big '80's Elevator Experience" were songs of my high school days. But at least I don't feel ancient at all. All I have to do is look around Bagram and I see contractors who are so old they would have been old when I was a high school kid. No matter the age, everyone in the Dragon DFAC plowed through their lunches to elevator versions of the songs of my teenage years. I'm probably the only one who even took notice of the music. 

The weather has been quite pleasant of late. I would compare it to fall in the North Carolina Piedmont. The nights are getting crisp - perhaps high 40's. The days are a comfortable mid-70's. I believe I can speak for everyone when I say it would be great if the weather would stay like this year-round. But it doesn't. We can all see the snow that's now capping the higher peaks in the distance. Winter is coming. With it comes not only cold temperatures, but rain and snow. There are no "snow days" for the bad weather. We'll work right through whatever comes our way. I just hope the heater in my hooch works fine. I'll find out soon enough.

My days have been averaging anywhere from 12 to 18 hours of intensive work. There is no let up in sight either. I've found that I am cursing the person who invented Microsoft Outlook. My schedule fills up practically before I can even come in. Everyone wants to meet right now and whatever their business is it takes priority over everything else going on at Bagram. I have fallen into the standard deployment routine of work, workout, eat, sleep. Compared to previous deployments though, this one has my routine on super steroids. I can take comfort in knowing I have eleven more months of this to go. The Red Sox are in the World Series. It's been 45 days since I last had a beer.

D for De-scope

Tearing down the "b-huts"

IOTV - Improved Outer Tactical Vest. Why do I mention that? Yes, I know it's another military acronym. But the reason I mention it up front is because we've been wearing ours a lot lately. To put it in simpler terms, the IOTV is the body armor we wear. It weighs around 35 pounds when fitted with the front, back and side armor plates. But that's when the vest is "slick" - as in no extra gear attached. In combat configuration the IOTV also carries at a minimum a full basic load of ammunition in magazines, a 9mm pistol and holster (for close defense), a harness strap cutter (to assist in rapidly exiting a damaged tactical vehicle), and a first aid kit. This increases the IOTV to around 50-60 pounds. It makes for a good workout when you have to wear it around all the time. And we've been wearing ours every day of late. That's because these pesky Taliban types like to celebrate holidays like Hadj and Eid by shooting rockets at us. So we just grin and bear it as we lug ourselves around with all this extra weight. It's all in the name of force protection and everyone understands this. That's why we can take it all in stride. I guess another reason I'm mentioning my IOTV is because I'm wearing mine right now. Ah, the weight bearing down on me brings out my creative best!

The military is very good at using terminology that you've never heard or used before. The catch-phrase of Bagram (and my world for the next eleven months) is "de-scope". A synonym for de-scope would be downsize. That's exactly what will happen to Bagram over the next eleven months. The base will be fundamentally reduced in size to one fourth of its current population. As part of this drastic downsizing of personnel, other aspects of the base will see a similar fate. The vehicle fleet will be only a fraction of its curret size (thank goodness for that). Multiple dining facilities, gyms, recreation facilities, PX's, and other facilities will be closed. A massive relocation of the remaining personnel will see them all moved into hardened barracks that are rocket-resistant. It is almost impossible for many to fathom what's coming for Bagram. The base is so crowded and cluttered at present that some people don't believe such drastic change is coming. But it is coming. And in my position I am running point on making it all come together. It really isn't the chess game it sounds like. I'd akin it to checkers instead. We are building new facilities and tearing down old. The retrograde from Afghanistan will take care of the rest. But why does the military insist on calling it de-scoping as opposed to downsizing? No matter I guess. My team is putting the "D" in de-scope just as fast as we'd put it into downsizing. I enjoy being responsible for this kind of work.

Just this past week we initiated the phased demolition of something that has become an icon of the Bagram experience - wooden "b-huts". These rickety plywood and two-penny nail shacks have served as home for thousands of Bagram residents past and present. They are both a safey hazard and a force protection liability. We are finally tearing them down. The former occupants either move into new reinforced concrete and steel barracks or they go home. For the non-believers, come over to one of the b-hut villages and watch them disappear. Then you'll know what I mean when I say de-scope.

Rain and Rockets

Filling the Hescos



I wish I had invented the Hesco. Just about every Soldier who's served in either Afghanistan or Iraq has thought that same thing. If there is one enduring image people will have from serving here it is of the ubiquitous Hesco. A Hesco is such a simple, yet effective device that has found its way into every nook and cranny of every FOB or base in existence. They are made of a durable fabric with a heavy-gauge wire frame and once unfolded just have to be filled with dirt - voila! In a few short hours a strengthened barrier can be in place to provide protection from various nasty things. I'd venture to say they've saved many lives during the course of our current conflict. Although I regret having not invented the things, I am grateful to the person who did. Hescos are all over Bagram too. Even though most of the construction on this base is permanent buildings and concrete "T-walls", Hescos fill in the void in various places in the name of force protection.

As the year creeps further into October the weather has slowly been changing. The evenings are cooler and, occasionally, provide a glimpse of the cold weather to come. Generally it has remained sunny and dry. But that changed the other night. Around 0400 I was slowly aroused from my deep slumber by a steady, peaceful background noise. As I regained my senses from my snooze I began to process what I was hearing. It was a light rain falling on the tin roof of my room. As I listened it increased in intensity. It's such a comforting sound and in no time I was back asleep. A couple of hours later when I awoke it was still coming down. I poked my head out the door just to see the first rain I had seen in months (it never rained for the two weeks I was in the US after I left Saudi Arabia). Not long after I got ready for work the rain tapered off and the sun poked his head back out. The ground around here was so dry that by 0900 there was practically no evidence it had rained at all. But the passing shower was followed by a much cooler day that the ones previous. It was a welcome change. I am always amazed at God's miracles, His ability to reveal himself to us in even the bleakest of places. Every deployment I spent in Iraq I would see and feel his presence with each spectacular sunset in the land of Babylon. Afghanistan is a rugged war-torn land of centuries-old conflicts. But in a simple stroke of a morning shower, we were reminded of His presence and the abundance of life He brings everywhere - including a war zone.

But we've been visited pretty regularly by another type of object that falls from the sky. This one has only deadly intentions and remind us that this is a war zone and there are enemies that stand against us. Rocket attacks, while random and inaccurate, have been relatively frequent. They keep us on edge, on our guard, and ever vigilant. October is becoming a month of rain and rockets. We stay focused on our mission and always aware that harbingers of life and death are with us every day.

Government Shutdown = Nuisance

My TV viewing option on American Forces Network

It's a good thing our military doesn't work like our government at times. Just imagine, a US military shutdown in the middle of a war? Yes, we do have our share of "analysis to paralysis" types who clog up our staff work and waste everyone's time with meeting after meeting to discuss the same thing. I had to work with some people like that in Saudi Arabia and it was frustrating for sure. But we'd never just shut down. But our government does and it did. I'm not going to venture into ideology of who's right and who's wrong in the midst of the current mess back inside the beltway. Instead, I'll stick to making mention of some of the ripple effects it has on everyone at the tip of the spear of America's ongoing war on terror. The media appears to have thought that getting paid was the only thing that needed to be resolved where the military was concerned. We're thankful that a resolution was passed to ensure our pay kept coming through this mess. But just paying us without resolving the other issues doesn't make everyone happy on this end.

Perhaps the most obvious effect the government shutdown has on all of us here is the morale aspect. American Forces Network (AFN), which is our sole source of TV entertainment, went off the air sans funding. This meant no college or pro football, no baseball playoffs, no network sitcoms, no anything except The Pentagon Channel (propaganda and old training films) and AFN news to fill us in about the lack of progress in the shutdown. We can deal without the other programming. But no football? Another big disruption came in our ability to make calls home. We have "morale lines" that we can call back to the US to connect with family and friends. But many of these are manned by civilian operators who were furloughed. That left a lot of us scrambling to find other venues to call through. In my command I have a number of Department of Defense (DoD) Civilians who work for me. Some of them had planned to take leave this month. But with the shutdown they can't because if they go on leave they will be immediately furloughed. What? That's just wrong. But it's the way it is. We try not to think about any of this. The resiliency of our military deployed is that we turn these challenges into jokes. But, truth is, we'd like this stuff to get resolved.

As expected, with so many people on furlough back in the US it effects our "reach back" capability with our organizational counterparts. In contrast to what I heard some idiot reporter say on CNN, these civilians were not just "support staff such as secretaries, custodians, and staffers." Many of them were high-level executives who are in charge of important agencies that support our warfighters. While they are on furlough it made it difficult to get action to be taken on our behalf when it was needed. I could go on and on but I think I've made my point. The government shutdown is a drain on us here. But we drive on and try not to let it affect us. Our mission comes first. Unlike the federal government, we don't shut down.

An example of what right looks like

Korean Hospital and Vocational Training Center

The Republic of Korea is one of our staunchest allies. This is no exception in Afghanistan. Here at Bagram the Koreans operate a hospital and vocational training center complex that is completely dedicated to helping the local population. The center is funded through the Korean International Cooperation Agency (KOICA), which is their equivalent to our United States Agency for International Development (USAID). The month of October started for me with an invite from the Koreans to tour their facilities. Although they lured me in with a promise of a traditional Korean lunch, the tour turned out to be the most satisfying part of the visit. What they are doing with the local population is exactly what right looks like. Even the most cynical of people would be unable to visit the Korean center here and not be impressed. They are making a positive impact on the lives of local Afghans through their dedicated medical care and skill training. And I have to say that the lunch at the end of the tour was splendid Korean fare.

My tour began with the hospital. This small facility handles around 250-400 outpatient cases a day and has a limited ability to provide longer-term care. On the day I visited they were only treating women. Their husbands huddled in the village nearby patiently awaiting their return. My tour guides, Nurse Yoo and Mr. Lee, were very passionate about their work and clearly expressed sincere belief in their efforts. They showed me the entire operation and it was very impressive. We started by looking at the Entry Control Point (ECP), which was manned by tough Korean Soldiers and professional Nepalese guards. Then we moved through the patient inprocessing area, where multiple Afghan women waited patiently for their appointments. The Koreans kept the process extremely orderly and the hospital was immaculate. As we moved through the corridors I met various doctors and nurses - all of whom were very polite and professional. At one point we stopped to speak to an Afghan father who was visiting his daughter. She was ill with a rare form of cancer and kept in an isolated, germ-free environment. This meant I could not visit her. But her father was teary-eyed and expressed such heartfelt appreciation for the help his daugher was receiving. I walked away with solid belief in my heart that I had just met at least one family that would never consider joining the Taliban.

My next stop was the vocational training center. This was a center devoted to training local people in critical skills that would make them readily employable. There were classes being taught in woodwork and carpentry, plumbing, electrician skills, automative work, computer operation, and various other areas. Every class was full. I was extremely impressed when I was shown the attendance rosters. Almost every class had perfect attendance for the year and those that didn't were close to perfect. The students were enthusiastic and eagerly embracing their new skills. The Korean instructors were dynamic and engaging. There were also Afghan graduates of the institute who had been hired as instructors. The real honor came when I was informed by Mr. Lee that they wanted me to return as the guest speaker at their graduation in a few months. I accepted on the spot. Damn right.

I think the ultimate feeling of satisfaction came the day after the tour. I was visiting our automotive shop that services the Bagram Non-Tactical Vehicle (NTV) fleet. While walking around the maintenance bays I noticed local nationals working on the vehicles. I asked the manager where his Afghan workers had been trained. I should have known the answer - the Korean Vocational Training Center. Yes, that's what right looks like.

Some things never change

Moon Dust

Different year, different deployment, different country, but some things never change. Whenever you put several thousand Soldiers, Marines, Airmen, Sailors, and Contractors together in a combat zone you'll observe and experience the same things. Bagram, while a long way from the FOBs in Iraq I became so fond of, shares many of the same features I like to provide commentary for. The similarities are inevitable. The geography, latitude and longitude may be unique but when you grind it into a melting pot of military personnel, equipment, and construction it takes on that familiar feel. Throughout this massive complex can be found all of the mundane observations I've made on other FOBs and perhaps a few more. I'll make mention of a few that I've found so far.

Moon dust resides here too. I remember in the summer of 2007 I found some of the most incredible dust I'd ever seen at a place called FOB Warhorse in Iraq. It was such fine powder of an incredible depth that made for footprints reminiscent of those left by Neil Armstrong on the Moon. Quite logically, I referred to my find as "Moon Dust". Since then, I found this talc-like substance populating various other bases. It is almost akin in appearance to Betty Crocker cake mix. It's origin is heavy military vehicle traffic that grinds dry soil into something similar to Turkish-ground coffee. Every footfall makes a poof of dust that floats and lingers for incredible periods of time. The flip side of this stuff is that in the rainy season it becomes a mud so pasty thick that it is like spackle on your boots. But in the dry season it is simply a sea of light brown that gracefully chokes everything and everyone when trod upon. Yes, Moon Dust, my old friend resides abundantly in Bagram. I am not looking forward to the first rains and the mess that will follow.

The ironies of everything. There are multiple Dining Facilities at Bagram. Every one of them provides its unique flair of flavorful abundance. The variety and quantities of food are staggering. It is obvious the great dietitians in the sky are wanting to promote healthy eating for our boys and girls in uniform and rightly so. But walking into a DFAC is such an irony. Yes, there are healthy choices galore - fresh salads, fruit, and lean meats. But then there are also lots of fried foods, fatty side dishes, and oh the ice cream - loads of ice cream. Granted, not every servicemember needs to watch the waistline. The majority of the Soldiers I see in the DFACs average in age anywhere from 19 to 29 so their metabolism is at a high rate. Certainly the amount of calories they burn on an average day are in the thousands due to the intensity of our requirements. It is a war after all. But my personal irony is simply this - why can I not have any real butter in the DFAC? I want real butter. Instead all we get is little packets of Promise Spread. Really? It's okay for us to pile on the ice cream, chocolate sauce, and all the other fixin's but I can't have real butter to put on my toast, potatoes, or veggies? That's just one of many ironies you'll find and Bagram is no exception at all.

Aside from the fact that I'm in Afghanistan, day-to-day observations in Bagram are almost identical to what I've grown accustomed to over the past ten years of deployments. There are many more to discuss but I'll save them for future commentary. On a side note, it has been 27 straight days since I last had a beer.


IDF to remind us

Bagram is such a large installation that it could almost pass for a base somewhere in the western United States. As a matter of fact, with just a little spit and polish, this place would be a reasonable base just about anywhere. It has all the trappings of a normal military air base - sans alcohol, commissary, bowling alley, and all-ranks clubs. Other than that, it is a healthy combination of old and new with a lot of construction projects ensuring the lasting modernization of the garrison. Before long the base will have a very nice two-story gym, a modern MWR (Morale, Welfare, and Recreation) facility complete with two movie theaters, and state-of-the-art dining facilities (DFAC). Soldiers based at Bagram currently live in a mixed bag of anything from containerized housing, tents, rickety wooden "B-huts", and more modern - albeit spartan - barracks. However, with the ongoing construction projects, coupled with the downsizing of the current population due to the drawdown of forces, everyone based here will be in new, hardened buildings very soon. There will be an internal power-generating plant providing electricity to the entire base (as in no portable generators), water plants that feed an internal, pressurized water system feeding every building, and updated road networks that safely route traffic on hardened surfaces. By the time it's all done a person could swear he or she is on a base in Colorado. But then there's the IDF...

IDF - Indirect Fire. It's a nasty animal that frequently invades the serenity of our peaceful Bagram. IDF reminds us all that we are in a war zone. It brings us back to the reality that there is a huge perimeter fence of t-walls and razor wire that surrounds this entire base. Beyond the perimeter fence are a lot of people who like to cause trouble to both the people of Afghanistan and the NATO forces here to defend them. These nasty folks are normally affiliated with the Taliban and Al Qaeda or both. They know they can't get into Bagram (and they've certainly tried in the past). So another way to cause potential death and destruction is to drop explosive ordnance inside the perimeter of the base. It's impossible to simply walk up to the wall from the outside and toss explosives over - a person with hostile intent would never get within 500 meters of the base without getting dropped by a hail of death. So the easier thing to do is to employ a weapon system that provides some "stand-off" capability - ie a mortar or rocket. When I was in Iraq the insurgents would employ both. Here in Afghanistan the weapon of choice is a rocket. Typically, their rocket of choice is Chinese-made 107mm rockets. But they typically don't have the correct launching platforms, which forces the bad guys to improvise simple racks that can't be adjusted. This, coupled with the fact they have no spotters to see where their rockets are landing, means aiming is impossible. So when they launch a rocket it is anyone's guess where it will land. As a caveat, many times the fuses are faulty or improperly attached so the rocket fails to detonate upon impact. Regardless, the rockets are a risk to life, limb and property and we have to be on our guard. Several times over the past few weeks the radar systems detects a launch, which will set off the base-wide alarm with it's claxton sound followed by "incoming! incoming! incoming!" This forces us to the ground to take cover until notified over the speaker system that it is "all clear." A daily reminder of this threat can be found just about anywhere on the base - bunkers made of reinforced concrete and sandbags. They are adjacent to just about every building serving notice that danger lurks just beyond the perimeter fence.

Fortunately, the nights have been very quiet the past few weeks. There have been a few random attacks but no damage and, more importantly, no casualties resulted. But they were enough to get our attention when the alarm sounded. IDF is there to remind us that this isn't a base in Colorado. It's Afghanistan.

Mayor of Bagram?

As I mentioned before, Bagram is a huge place. It's easily the largest single base I've seen over the past ten years. Victory Base Complex (VBC) in Iraq was larger overall than Bagram, but VBC was a series of smaller bases that were linked to one another. Bagram is a stand-alone installation. It is like a medium-sized city with a population that fluctuates between thirty to forty thousand. Just as you would find with a city of that size there are all the trappings of SIMCITY. There is a power plant, wastewater treatment, sewage, garbage collection and disposal, emergency first-responders, hospitals, veterinary services, road networks, public transportation, and just about anything else imagineable. The airfield is the busiest in the entire Department of Defense, with an aircraft landing or taking off about once every three minutes. The base is a staggering operation and the central hub of everything we do in eastern Afghanistan. All of the responsibilities of keeping this military city running fall under my organization either directly or indirectly. That makes me, as Garrison Commander, the equivalent of the Mayor of Bagram. As a result, I am finding that I am in high demand for better or for worse. My first few days of command have been an almost endless procession of meetings and hand shakes with the command teams of multiple units and organizations who reside here. They all have needs that need to be met. My role is to help them prioritize what they actually need versus what "needs" are actually just a convenience and fitting those priorities into what my organization can truly provide.

I'm finding that Coalition Partners are also an integral part of the day-to-day experience here. Just like my American counterparts, the Coalition organizations are equally interested seeing their needs met. Their approach is a little different. The Polish forces sent me a congratulatory certificate, with two of their Colonels presenting it to me personally. Meanwhile, the Korean contingent invited me to their hospital for a tour and some traditional food. The Jordanians were hoping to "pimp-out" their tent accommodations and get some fitness equipment. At the same time, the good folks from UAE were looking to harden their existing buildings to be more resistant to indirect fire (IDF). After paying a visit to a worksite where some new facilities were being constructed, the Turkish construction company working on the project fed CSM and me baklava and invited us to a traditional meal at their compound. My social calendar is filling up fast and I am finding that "social" IS business here. It's like I am a politician and, at the same time, a military commander. While I am the latter, mixing politics with commanding would make someone like General William T. Sherman roll over in his grave. But I am adjusting and getting used to this very quickly. In case anyone is wondering, CSM and I will definitely enjoy some of those traditional meals in the coming weeks.

There have been hiccups. Most notable for me was that I could not move into my permanent billet. The former commander refused to move until the day he flew out headed home. His flight out departed the day after the change-of-command. But that evening when I tried to move in I found the place an absolute mess. It took two more days of cleaning and hauling out boxes upon boxes of junk before I was finally able to move in. Almost two weeks after I arrived here I was finally able to unpack my dufflebags and retrieve the boxes I'd mailed myself and get them unpacked. At last I can start to develop some normalcy to my routine. That's a good thing because in a place like this you need to be focused on the job at hand and not distracted by off-duty challenges. Now I can wear my mayor hat without interruption.

Taking Command

 

Inherent in every change-of-command is a transition time period known as the Transfer of Authority, or TOA (pronounced TOE-UH). The TOA involves several days for the outgoing commander to orient the incoming commander to as many aspects of the unit mission as time allows before the actual change of command. Whether or not the TOA is successful really is a hit or miss. When it is a hit, it can be a spectacular success. But when it is a miss, it can be a very painful process that creates a lot of friction and, in the worst case scenario, a lot of resentment. Normally the success of a TOA falls somewhere in the middle. Often times, the outgoing command team will have a difficult time letting go, handing over the reins, or releasing their grip. For the purpose of my latest change-of-command there were some unique circumstances. The most obvious difference is that this TOA only involved the command team. My CSM and I were here to replace the outgoing commander and CSM. Everyone else would remain, which created an excellent continuity. However the TOA, which should have been easy in this case, was stressful because the outgoing commander simply did not want to let go and was extremely resentful towards me. CSM and I had nine days of orientation leading up to the change-of-command ceremony. During that time the outgoing commander had very little to say and when we'd be touring the installation with one of our staff sections he was nowhere to be found. The outgoing CSM was exactly the opposite. He, in contrast, was extremely professional and ready to help at every turn. But the outgoing commander simply did not want to let go and seemed in denial all the way up to the end that his tour was up. It was a very awkward thing to be a part of. Fortunately, it did not detract from a very successful TOA provided by the staff and subordinates of our future command. By the time the ceremony arrived we were both more than ready to take charge.

 

Our change-of-command ceremony took place on the morning of 18 September. It was held in a "clam shell" tent across the street from our headquarters. The event was well attended. Every brigade-level command team on Bagram was in attendance. There were also several garrison command teams from other locations that had flown in to attend. Our task force Deputy Commanding General was present, along with the TF Command Sergeant Major. In true Coalition spirit, a Canadian Brigadier General presided over the time-honored tradition of passing the colors from outgoing to incoming commander. My speech was short - the incoming commander always keeps the talk down to three minutes or less. But it felt amazing to be taking command again. For me, this would be my third command over the last six years, with two of them, including this one, in a combat zone. Nothing beats command. It's the best job to have.

 

Immediately following the ceremony CSM and I hosted a reception that was well-catered. It was also very well attended. There was an excellent vibe to the event and an electric intensity to the moment. I genuinely felt embraced by the Bagram community. There is a lot of work to get accomplished over the coming year. If done correctly, it will completely transform Bagram forever. As soon as the reception was over we rolled up our sleeves and got started. A year will go by fast. I believe this coming year will be extremely rewarding. It will certainly be challenging. But that's what leaders embrace - a challenge.



Welcome to Bagram

Not even multiple tours in Iraq could prepare me for the size and scope of Bagram. It is a massive base situated near Kabul. Occupants of Bagram have chronicled their experiences through web pages like ILoveBagram.com and various other means. The base is situated around 5,000 feet elevation and is surrounded by scenic mountains. But don't let the scenery fool you, as Bagram is also at the center of a war that has raged for over a decade. It's also a former Soviet air base from their war against the mujahideen back in the '80's. When the Soviets evacuated the base they deliberately left it a mess and planted extensive minefields that are still being cleared today. In the time we've run the base there have been a number of improvements in terms of infrastructure, building construction, airfield modernization and expansion. But there is still a long way to go. The base is overcrowded with military, civilian contractors, and their equipment of all types. Coyote Creek, a putrid, contaminated, mine-infested mess, winds its way from one side of the base to the other. The Taliban still routinely attack the base with rockets and are always scheming to do much worse. It is a place that is teeming with activity day and night. The air traffic alone makes it one of the busiest airports in the entire region. This is the place I will call home for the next year.

Gratefully, CSM and I were afforded the opportunity to sleep in a little on the first morning. This was a futile attempt at overcoming jet-lag. Given the nine and a half hour time difference from the U.S., it actually takes several days to make any degree of reasonable adjustment. Regardless, around noon on September 9th we began our orientation of Bagram and the organization we would be taking command of. It started right away with an in-depth briefing of the current OPTEMPO and force protection status. Then we were off on the first of what would be many tours around the base. There is an east side and west side with the airfield in the middle bisecting the two. The west side is noted by a long road called Disney Drive (in honor of a Soldier who was killed early in the conflict here). Disney is lined with various headquarters, billets, offices, gyms, DFACs (dining facilities), the PX, and extensive modernization and construction projects. Our HQ is also situated on Disney, conveniently across the street from a gym. Meanwhile the east side is a vast expanse of equipment storage yards, a huge Ammo Supply Point (ASP), workshops, a coalition detention center, and the usual acronyms like CRSP, RPAT, AFSB, DLA, etc, etc, etc... There are several concrete plants operating almost continually making t-walls and other all-important structures that are so familiar to combat zone bases. The east side is also home to numerous construction projects building new, hardened billets, DFACs, gyms, and other facilities that are part of the enduring requirements of the base that span beyond 2014. As we drove around the place I was simply astounded at how big this place really is and how much equipment and containers are crammed into every nook and cranny. Retrograde from here will be much more difficult than Iraq because there is no overland route out of the country for military convoys. As a result, a lot of what's here has to be flown out, which is why it's all coming to Bagram. But air shipment costs at least four times as surface transport (ie convoy and ships). That makes for some very sad compromises happening here that were not needed in Iraq. A big example of this is the activities at the DLA (Defense Logistics Agency) yard. The folks at DLA are destroying major end-item equipment (such as MRAPs) by cutting them into little pieces utilizing plasma torches. A $1.5 million piece of equipment is turned into a $400 pile of scrap metal in just a few short hours. The reason is that it is much cheaper to simply destroy the vehicle and sell the scrap than it is to ship it via air back to the U.S. It is just the logistical fix we are in here but, regardless, we'll get through it all over the next year.

The evening of the first full day at Bagram provided us a reminder that we were in a combat zone surrounded by people who'd like nothing more than to kill us. We had stopped by the gym for a workout. The gym is a converted "clam-shell" tent full of free-weights, weight equipment, and cardio equipment. It is the type of hard core exercise facility I love because it is no-frills. Anyway, I had finished my run and was about to do some pull-ups when the alarm sounded warning us of an indirect fire attack. Those crazy Taliban were rocketing the base. The sporadic attack lasted over an hour and kept us hunkered down along the t-walls waiting for the "all-clear" to sound. I guess it was our welcome to Bagram. Ah, life in a combat zone...

Fifty-plus Hours of Pain

Traveling from the U.S. to the other side of the world is never easy. The military finds a way to make it excruciating. I've made similar trips to Iraq in the past but flying to Afghanistan proved even worse. There were around 80 of us making the trek. It began at Briggs Army Airfield, which is part of Fort Bliss. We arrived there around ten in the morning and proceeded to go through customs. Then we were fed prior to getting a series of briefings. Amazingly we didn't have to wait long to board our flight. It was a military-contracted Boeing 767 flown by Atlas Air. Since there were so few of us, we were all able to spread out. That was really the only comfortable part of the whole journey. At 1430 on September 6th our deployment began with the big aircraft lifting off from Briggs Field.

Around 1830 we made a refueling stop in Portsmouth, New Hampshire. This provided us a rare treat that few Americans are even aware of. The various Veterans' organizations in the area coordinate with the airport management to provide military flights a heroes' welcome whether they are coming or going. There must've been 200 or more people there to greet us. They provided food, phones, drinks (non-alcoholic of course), and wonderful conversation. They held an amazing ceremony in our honor. When it was time for us to board they formed a long line to shake our hands and provide hugs. These people are true patriots and make everyone feel a little better just for knowing them. When it is time for CSM and I to come home at the end of our deployment I hope our flight is routed through Portsmouth again. At 2100 we were airborne and headed to Germany.

The flight from Portsmouth to Hahn, Germany took around eight and a half hours. Due to the time difference between Germany and the U.S., it was around 1400 on September 7th when we touched down. The terminal we were escorted to was an old Cold War-era U.S. Air Force figher base. Most of the buildings were boarded up and abandoned. The terminal was full of Soldiers because another Atlas Air flight had arrived before us. These Soldiers were on their way home from a year-long deployment. Inside the terminal were snack bars, gift shops, pool tables, lots of seating, and a pay-for-use wireless network. Unfortunately, the air conditioning was on the blink and it was hot as hell. So we sweltered for a few hours waiting to reboard our flight. I had a coffee and paid the five Euros to use the wireless while I waited. There was a distinct difference in the attitudes of the Soldiers headed home as opposed to the folks on my flight. The Soldiers headed home were happy, joking, and very relaxed. In contrast, the people on my flight were just plain tired and quiet. After a couple of hours on the ground to refuel, we reboarded our flight. Sometime just after 1600 we were airborne again. Our next stop was Kuwait. I loathe Kuwait.

Around 2100 we touched down on the military side of Kuwait City International Airport. Deja Vu! How many times had I flown through this place? I lost count. But here I was again walking down the stairway to awaiting buses and being told not to pull back the curtains. Once we loaded on the buses we were driven over to a holding area to await our escorts. Due to a communication error, we ended up sitting in the dusty holding area for over two hours. Fortunately, the temperature was bearable. The notorious Kuwaiti heat had subsided a bit. Finally, sometime just before midnite, we loaded our buses again and made the hour trek to Camp Arifjan. Wait, Camp Arifjan? Why in the world did they take us to Camp Arifjan? There is no airfield there. We should've gone straight to Ali Al Salem. But, no, we were taken to Zone 6, Camp Arifjan and ushered into a big briefing tent to be segregated according to our follow-on destination. CSM and I were given a hard time of 0530 to be back at the same tent to load a bus taking us to Ali Al Salem (where we should of gone in the first place). Since it was so late it wasn't even worth trying to get a tent to sleep for an hour. So we went to the 24-hour Starbucks for coffee. Then we dutifully reported back to the briefing tent. Shortly afterward we loaded another bus for another hour-long drive. Around 0800 on September 8th we arrived at Ali Al Salem in the middle of a howling sandstorm and were ushered into another tent.

Ali Al Salem had changed a bit since 2011, which was the last time I was there. The big tent city was now gone. Either that or we were in a completely differenct part of the base than I was used to. Regardless, we were put on lockdown in our tent and had to sit and wait. All the while we were wondering if our tent would survive the sandstorm raging outside. The AC in the tent wasn't working well and as the sun rose higher in the sky the temperature began to soar. I tried to get some sleep by laying across three or four padded chairs. That proved futile. The only food we were offered was MRE's. It was yet another miserable experience courtesy of Kuwait. We've been at this war for over ten years now but the experience of flying through Kuwait seemed even worse now than ever. Once again, the best part of Kuwait was having it in the rear-view mirror. At around 1530 we were finally loaded onto an awaiting C17 transport that was headed to Kandahar first and then on to Bagram. Since there were also cargo pallets that needed to be loaded as well, it was around three hours later before we finally took off. In the meantime, there were a lot of people taking potty breaks on the lone bathroom inside the cargo hold. Sleep was hard to come by. Finally around 1830 we were airborne and on our way to Afghanistan.

Our first stop was Kandahar. About half the passengers onboard got off, as well as a couple of the cargo pallets. All the while, CSM and I sat and waited. A short time later about thirty or so new passengers boarded followed by another cargo pallet. After around an hour on the ground we took off again. At last we were in route to the final destination. At around 0100 on September 9th CSM and I walked off the C17 onto the tarmac of Joint Base Bagram. My feet were screaming at me, as the new boots I'd been issued in Fort Bliss were not working out at all. After hobbling across the tarmac to the passenger terminal, we were greeted by a couple of folks from the garrison. Strangely enough, the outgoing Commander and CSM were nowhere to be seen. Regardless, the two folks who met us helped us load our dufflebags and gear into a waiting vehicle for a short trip to our temporary billets. This is when another "bad form" moment surfaced. Rather than providing the incoming Commander and CSM individual billets they had crammed us into a tiny room divided into three smaller bunk spaces. I was too tired to protest. The bed awaited. It was just after 0200. Our journey to Afghanistan was complete at last. It had been fifty-plus hours of pain. Either that or I'm just starting to show my age.